Be
Your Pet’s Best Friend: Learn First Aid for
Pets
Stephen Sheldon, D.V.M.
In the event of an emergency you will be your
pet's best friend if you know some first aid! I
call first aid 'common sense treatment' because
intuition usually tells you what the right and
wrong things are to do. Nevertheless, there are
some important guidelines you should always follow.
We'll discuss those and also how to respond to
some specific emergencies. Remember to call your
veterinarian immediately; first, you might get
some life saving advice, and second, they'll be
ready for you when you arrive.
The ABCs
These are first aid priorities and are: Airways,
Breathing, and Circulation (including bleeding).
These areas require attention before other injuries.
Make sure the airway is clear of dirt, debris,
mucus, blood and vomit by extending the head and
neck, pulling the tongue forward, and sweeping
the oral cavity with your fingers. If there are
head or neck injuries don't overextend the head
and neck. Next check for breathing by feeling for
air at the nostrils and observing the chest for
motion. Normal respiration should be 15 to 20 breaths
per minute; expect it to be fast and shallow if
the animal is in pain. Check the color of the mucus
membranes (gums are best, followed by lower eyelid
and vagina if gums are not accessible), if they
are blue it suggests poor respiration. If the animal
is not breathing, clear the airway and begin mouth
to nose respiration; to do this place the tongue
in it's normal position, close the mouth, and blow
into the nostrils for 2-3 seconds. If you are doing
it correctly the chest will rise and fall. Repeat
every 3-5 seconds until the animal is breathing.
Circulation is next. Again check the color of the
mucus membranes, they should be pink. Check the
capillary refill time (CRT) by pressing the gums
with your finger; if CRT is normal the gums will
go white and return to pink in 1 to 1.5 seconds.
Pale or white mucus membranes indicates shock,
dehydration, or blood loss (to name a few). Check
the heart rate by feeling the animals chest wall
or by checking the pulse in the following areas:
inside thighs (femoral), under tongue (lingual)
or under the toes behind the major foot pad (digital).
If there is no pulse start CPR using the following
breaths:chest compression ratio: 1:3 for pets less
than 20 pounds, 1:5 in medium sized pets and 2:15
in giant breeds. To compress the chest, lay the
animal on its side and compress with the palm of
your hand over the widest portion of the chest
(ie ribcage). If there is any obvious, excessive
bleeding control it using direct pressure or by
using a pressure bandage. Use a tourniquet only
as a last resort and remember to release the pressure
every 5 minutes or so to avoid permanent damage
to the limb. Now is the time to proceed to your
veterinarian.
RESPIRATORY EMERGENCIES
Some of the more common causes of respiratory
emergencies are trauma, airway obstruction (choking),
laryngeal paralysis, pulmonary edema (heart disease,
electric shock, poisons), allergic bronchitis/asthma,
and congestive heart failure. If it is an emergency
NOT associated with choking first make sure your
pet is breathing, if not, perform mouth to nose
resuscitation as described above. If it is breathing,
make plans to get to a veterinarian ASAP. In the
meantime keep your pet as calm and as cool as possible;
remember, dogs and cats dissipate heat by panting,
if this is compromised they can overheat quickly.
Place your cat in a cool, dark, well-ventilated
carrier. Carry your dog to the car if possible;
DO NOT PUT A LEASH AROUND YOUR DOGS NECK! If your
pet is choking and you can't remove the object
you'll have to perform the Heimlich maneuver; you
can do this one of 2 ways: if you can, lift the
animal heads up with its spine against your chest
and your arms wrapped under its forearms and around
its chest; now push inward and lift upward with
short, powerful strokes. If the pet is too heavy.
lay it on its side, extend the head and neck into
a natural position, and place your hands behind
the animal's ribs and give short pushes up towards
the diaphragm (ie. chest cavity). Once you have
dislodged the object bring both your pet and the
object to your veterinarian.
HEAT STROKE
Since it is summer, I wanted to get in a few words
about heat related injuries in part 1
(part 2 will be next, duh). There are a lot of
factors that contribute to heat injuries but none
is as important as our environment. It can just
get plain hot here folks. In addition animals with
heavy coats, preexisting medical conditions, heart
disease, brachycephalic features (ie. bulldogs,
pugs) are even more at risk of heat stroke. Animals
suffering hyperthermia (ie. heat stroke) need immediate
attention. Check the pets vital signs, go through
your ABCs and resuscitate if needed. While your
doing this you can start cooling the animal down.
Don't waste precious time taking the temperature
yet because starting the cooling process won't
hurt your pet but delaying can. Use lukewarm water
baths or cool water-soaked towels at first. Do
not use ice water or ice baths at first; this causes
the peripheral veins to constrict down which can
actually prevent the heat from leaving and trap
it internally (don’t worry if that doesn’t
make sense just listen to the doctor please). Once
you've started cooling take a rectal temperature,
you can stop cooling when you get to 102-103 (normal
for a pet is 101-102 F). You'll need to go see
a veterinarian immediately; hyperthermia is very
serious and requires aggressive supportive care.
I don't need to mention never leave you pet locked
in you car, do I?
In part 2 we'll discuss how to handle some more
specific injuries such as toad poisoning (rinse
mouth out immediately!), burns (wet compress),
insect bites (benadryl and meat tenderizer), poisoning
(1-800-2823171), drowning (ABCs), eye injuries
(flush and cover), and shock (ABCs). Ok, so I'm
a healing professional; I couldn't mention all
these maladies without at least giving you a hint
how to handle them.
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